Archive | August, 2010

Bola

24 Aug

Mexico City’s Museo Casa de la Bola is a bit out of the way, but worth the trek. I drove around the block about 7 times the first time I went, before figuring out where to park. It’s hard to imagine Tacubaya used to be a very natural residential area where elite Mexico City residents had their country homes in the 19th century. Now it’s industrial and close to major highways. This house is one of the few old ones that remain in the middle of gas stations and paint stores.

Oasis:

The house is decorated by a collector with many elite styles from Europe that were popular in the 1800s. It is not furnished as it originally would have been around Independence, but rather contains pieces from many different periods, mostly collected by its last owner. You can take a guided tour, which is mildly interesting (if not very historic), especially if you have some travieso in your group who dares to step off the designated walking carpet. This will definitely incite the wrath of your guide.

The best part is definitely the “backyard” of the house, which resembles something like a jungle with overgrown marble statues forgotten in many covered corners. The garden property is enormous and a sharp contrast to its surroundings and neighbors.

What a nice seat

Many historians and interesting professors come to speak here on Sundays, and they have a lot of events celebrating the Bicentenario this year. I was amazed by how packed those lectures were with people of different ages. When they asked questions they seemed really fascinated and identified with Mexican history and local history of the neighborhood.

Rumor has it the Guera Rodriguez hung out here with the original bachelor owner. A supposed proponent of Independence from Spain, it seems likely that they would have known each other since the high society crowd in Mexico City was relatively small around Independence. I feel a certain affinity to her having been called by her name without end, but I think that’s all we have in common.


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Pirámides

10 Aug

The Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia (INAH) takes care of the ancient ruins and pyramids throughout Mexico. Well… at least those that qualify for this support and maintenance. I’ve heard about hundreds of hidden pyramids that remain on private property under grass (and even small vegetable gardens), there’s never enough resources to protect them all. And of course it’s not easy task to fight with the landowners and residents, or convince them to turn over their land for the good of cultural/historic preservation. I mean, who really cares about that? If I grew my lunch on top of a pyramid, I probably wouldn’t want to give it up either. The INAH gets a lot of flack.

I like the fact that Mexican citizens and residents pay a discounted rate when visiting these sites (or sometimes it’s free for them.) In this case, making foreigners pay more to see Mexican national treasures seems MORE than fair.

Some of my favorite pyramids in Mexico:

 

At Monte Alban, Oaxaca


Calixtlahuaca, Estado de México

This rounded pyramid is uniquely shaped and located, a short drive from the industrial city of Toluca.

 

Teotihuacan, Pirámide de la Luna, Estado de México

Teotihuacan is a requisite visit when traveling to D.F., I’ve been there 3 or 4 times with visitors. They are slowly opening up some of the inner tunnels and temples inside the pyramids, so every time there’s more to see.

For a city mouse, the coolest of all is the Templo Mayor, an Aztec/Mexica temple discovered underneath buildings of Mexico City in 1978 during routine electric work. Major example of syncretism because the Spanish constructed their cathedral on the already-sacred spot of the Aztec temple.

Literally lying just below the surface.

One More Try

3 Aug

New Mexico was a good place for picking up a crazy heart.

Very American state but has a life of its own and a history completely independent of the U.S. There was this fascinating period at the end of the 19th century, between being part of “Old Mexico” and gaining statehood, when New Mexico just was.

Views from the top of Sandia Peak, near Albuquerque. Longest aerial tramway in the world. If this place looks empty now, I can’t imagine what it was like 50 years ago.

Visit Sandia Peak

Even in downtown Albuquerque, the sky is beautiful and huge most of the time. It just felt livable.

An everyday sunset on our Albuquerque street

Definitely a good place for one more try.

Grand Canyon

2 Aug

Oh! The years of junior high and high school when Thelma & Louise watched over my every move from this poster on the wall of my room. Who knows what effects this had on my subconscious.

“Somebody said get a life… so they did.”

Love this movie.

In 2010 I finally visited their end of the line.

Bottomless pit for real. It was eerie standing on the edge of the grand canyon, in the rain, waiting for the cute little shuttle they send around. I was thinking, the grand canyon has been here for quite a while. It probably doesn’t even CARE what we’re doing. The Hopi first brought the Spanish to the canyon around 1540. Railroad arrived in 1901, bringing lots of tourism. GC still hasn’t budged. Kind of nice.

Next stop, the gift shop!

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